quinta-feira, 26 de agosto de 2010

Vienna

I hadn´t thought about going to Austria when I went to Europe the first time in 1995. I had planned, as soon as my exchange programm at the University of Nantes was done, to travel through Italy, Switzerland and Germany. Then one day, during my stay in Nantes, I was convinced to come with Vivian C. to spend a weekend in Vienna.
We left Nantes on a friday by noon. Stopped in Paris for a quick visit to the La Défense District and went on to our destination on early evening. I remember the train moving slowly through the city of Nancy. It was possible to see people walking back home after a day of work, the old downtown buildings with an orange light in the rooms, and the cars moving in the streets. I took a nap and then woke up when the train was in Stuttgart, and that made me remember a nice dream I had had years ago in which I and my father rode in a white car in Stuttgart. Then I told Vivian I was going to get out of the train and stay out as much as possible, before the train left again. It was around 5 am, and still dark. A little after the train started moving again I seemed to see a brown bear in what seemed to be a zoo, but didn´t know for sure if it was real or if I was dreaming.

I woke up again with the sun coming out, already in Austria, near the city of Linz, and started to enjoy the landscape that passed outside the train´s window. We passed over a river that seemed to be the Danube.

We arrived in Viena very early in the morning of saturday. Walked to the youthhostel, left the bagagge and went out to wander around the city. We walked downtown and attended a mass at the cathedral of St. Stephen. Shopped around the Ring, and visited Schubert´s house, Mozart´s house and Freud´s house. Finally got the tram  and tried to visit the Zentralfriedhof cemetery to see the great musicians tombs when it was already getting dark and did´n´t find them. A lady that was leaving warned us not to get out of the main routes because many people get lost and can´t find the way out during the night. It was winter and freezing in Vienna. We left for a pizza at night.


NuBdorferstraBe

On sunday we left early in the morning to see the Boys Choir in the chapel of the old Imperial Court. After lunch, we came back again to the cemetery to finally see the famous tombs, and because we were in Vienna, we couldn´t leave it without seeing the Danube. We got the subway and headed to one of the bridges to take a fast look at the river.

Now, 15 years later I come to read "Danube", by Claudio Magris, and review "Vienne La Rouge", by Jérôme et Jean Tharaud, in order to revolve memories and sugest programs to my friend Alberto who is visiting Vienna next month.

sábado, 7 de agosto de 2010

Nantes III

When I left Nantes for a tour around Europe, I planned to come back. Christian was going to Hamburg about 20 days later, to buy a used Mercedes car. I would also be in Germany by then, to visit an old friend. We adjusted that I would call and maybe meet him and he would give me a ride back to France, from where I should fly back to Brazil.

I left Nantes to northern Italy, Genoa and Venice. Then Zurich, Basel and Anzère, hosted by swiss friends. Then Strassbourg, Heidelberg, Lubeck and Hamburg.

(Downtown Hamburg at night. I took this picture the day I arrived from Lübeck and was going from the train station to the Youth Hostel)


One morning Christian and a friend of his came to pick me up at a subway station in Hamburg. We stayed two days there together (I arrived 4 or 5 days before him). One night we went out and visited a bar where, some people say, the Beatles started. We saw Ringo´s drums and didn´t stay very long. Hamburg is a very nice city with great bars, nice beers, great landscapes (The Elber River, the city channels, beautiful parks), a big port and a marvelous architecture.

The second day we started riding back to Nantes. We left Hamburg in the afternoon, and our first stop was in Aachen (Netherlands), where I bought a little bottle of korn (a typical german brandy). Then we stopped in Liège for dinner. It was rainning and after visiting some bars in downtown, we finally found a restaurant, that was fancy. Christian chose my plates, so I could have a good idea of the local cuisine. I had frog in butter for the first plate and meat for the main course. It was great. We went back to the highway.

I was completely asleep as we passed through Paris, but I do remember that I opened the eyes to see some of the tunnels. I should help Christian on driving, but I was pretty much tired, while he was very awake and strong. Then I asked Christian to awake me when we passed through Chartres. I told him that my first view of the Cathedral from the road two months earlier (it was from a local road though, and not from the main highway), early in the morning was one of the most amazing view I had ever had in my life. The Cathedral was under a fog, standing up and high and all alone over a flat horizon. Seen from the countryside was astonishing. I wanted to repeat the experience.

But when Christian woke me up we were right close beside the Cathedral. He stopped the car and started looking at it, with admiration. I then looked out and was not sure if I was awake or dreaming. Christian asked me if I wanted to get out of the car and see it better. I said it was up to him. He said he didn´t care and then told me something I didn´t understand. I said: "What?" And he goes: "never mind". When I woke up we were already in front of his house in Nantes.


This picture of the Cathedral was taken in 1998 when I came back to France, and not the day I passed by with Christian very early in the morning.

Quand j´ai sorti de Nantes, après mon cours à l´Université, Christian m´a dit qu´il serais à Hamburg en vingt jours. Moi aussi serai là en voyage au tour de l´Europe. Je suis allé au nord d´Italie, a la Suisse et l´Alemagne. Allors j´ai rencontré Christian en Hamburg et nous sommes retournés à Nantes en voiture. Dans le chemin de retour on a passé en Liège pour le dinner, où Christian m´a sugeré de savoire la grenouille. C´était super. Avant l´aube on passait a Chartres pour voir la Cathédrale. C´est un site que m´a beaucoup impressioné. C´était mars, 1995.